Whether  you’re an avid skier or a family member who prefers lounging with a book while others are on the slopes, the Family Times at Big Powderhorn Mountain in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula combines luxury, convenience and beauty at impressively competitive prices.   

Grooming at Big Powderhorn is impressive. The ski area encompasses 253 acres and includes 33 trails and two terrain parks serviced by 9 double chairlifts and a beginner handle tow.  The longest run is one mile.  Skiers are spread out, so you can cruise down beautifully groomed slopes with no need to dodge other skiers, but with grooming and amenities you’d expect when dealing with crowds.  

Keeping a group together is easy at this location where one primary lodge at the bottom of the hill provides a logical meeting place if you get separated.   Family Times' guests can simply cruise into their condo for meals or to take a break.  Being able to stop at the condo and take only a few steps to be in the door makes it a perfect option for families with varying degrees of enthusiasm for the slopes. Its' location on the slope with the chairlift that opens first and closes last is ideal. 

The 4-unit Family Times is appropriately named.  Flat screen TV’s with DVD and cable and various game tables including foosball, air hockey and pinball make this a fun destination for all ages.  A private sauna and hot tub in each unit loosen those muscles after a day on the slopes or make the non-skier happy they came along.   These units can also be a perfect romantic get-away or a couples retreat. In spring, Big Powderhorn also features an outdoor snow bar experience. 

Natural wood interiors, huge windows with lots of light, large rooms, granite countertops, and beautiful furnishings and artwork celebrate the Northwoods environment while making occupants feel like royalty.  This condo is a great place to relax and play.  All beds have comfortable Tempur-Pedic mattresses. 

Units 2, 3 & 4 are ideal for a family of four, with one king bedroom and a second bedroom with a queen bunk on the bottom and twin on the top.  The living room couch also folds out, for maximum sleeping for 7. 
 
Unit 1 is an ideal choice for larger groups, with three king rooms (two with fireplaces), one bunk room and a sofa sleeper.  This unit has a gorgeous kitchen, living room, separate sitting/reading area overlooking the slopes, and a lower level suite with pool table. Each of the condo units include a bath on each of the three floors.   
 
Rates are comparable to much less impressive properties, complimentary high speed internet is included, and Family Times guests receive a $6/day lift ticket discount.  The units can be rented separately, or can be rented together with adjoining doors opened to host large groups.   The ease of combining condos makes this a great destination for a family or other reunion.  Rates and amenities on this condo make it a must to consider for your Big Powderhorn stay.  Midweek rates are particularly reasonable.  
 
Family Times is also a destination during summer and fall, with even more attractive rates.  Beautiful hiking trails and numerous waterfalls make this a destination year round.  (Unit 1 is not available during summer and fall.)  
 
For floor plans, additional photos, rates for specific dates and other details, visit http://www.bplafamilytimes.com, or contact Big Powderhorn Mountain Resort  Lodging, LLC, located on level one of the new Lodge; 855-501-7669 or  906-932-4838,   
lodging@bigpowderhorn.net;www.bigpowderhorn.net/lodging.htm.  

“I play 40 hours a week, either on the street or on stage.  The tips of my fingers  are flat, but they still hurt sometimes.”  The Nashville street musician is open to talking about living life on tips, love of music and a dream of the big time.  It can happen.  After performing at Tootsies, Willie Nelson got his first songwriting job.  Gretchen Wilson was discovered by John Rich when he heard her sing during her break as a bartender. This has been the launching pad for many a country artist.  
 
We’re the beneficiaries of the Nashville dream.  For the cost of a hotel  room, a few beers & tips tossed in the jars, visitors to downtown Nashville  experience some of the world’s best music with no reservations, no assigned seats, and no huge venues.  If you want to splurge, buy a CD from a local artist.  There’s something very special about a destination that requires no agenda or pre-planning to get quality entertainment, history and fun.  
 
From late morning until bar time, simply walk from honky tonk to honky tonk, grab a drink and a bar stool and enjoy the music and the characters.  The  focus is country, but you’ll also hear blues, rock & jazz.  Bands change frequently, and with 71 bars within a few blocks, never-ending variety is available.  Take time to talk with and listen to the street musicians as well. 
  
Historic Tootsies Orchid Lounge on Broadway is a good starting point.  Stars ranging from Toby Keith to Pamela Anderson have been spotted at Tootsies.   It’s rumored that Roger Miller wrote “Dang Me” in this bar.  Part of the movie “Coal Miner’s Daughter” about Loretta Lynn was filmed here, as well as in Ernest Tubb record shop across the street.   Tootsies, and this whole area of  Nashville, is an active museum.   Be sure to check out both the front and back stages.  To access the back stage, go up the steps in the back.  Many of the bars on Broadway have second stages which are often not obvious.  On crowded weekend nights, these areas tend to be a bit less crowded.  
 
Roberts Western World has great grilled burgers to accompany the foot stomping music.  Legend’s Corner and The Stage are also 
favorites on Broadway, but on any given night, your favorite spot will depend on who happens to be playing when you stop in.  
  
After experiencing Broadway, hike a few blocks up  to Printers Alley just past 4th Ave. N.  This area is a bit dirty and seedy including strip joints and many places have cover charges, but there is history and character to be experienced here if you’re in the mood 
– a bit like a small, grungy version of New Orleans’ Bourbon St.   Rascal Flatts played here before their fame. 
 
The Ryman auditorium, home to the Grand Ol’ Opry from 1943 to 1974, still hosts big name artists, and the Grand Ol’ Opry returns 
to the Ryman from November through January of each year.  I much prefer this venue over Opryland, a large resort complex 11 miles 
NE of downtown -- large and impressive, but with much less character than the historic Ryman. 
  
Wandering into the shops on Broadway is a visual  treat.  Lines of guitars are artwork in themselves, and the western shops with walls of hats and floors lined  with multi-colored boots build on the overall character of the street.  
  
It’s easy to spend an entire weekend just on Broadway, but if you’d like to expand your Nashville horizons, pre-book the ‘Nash Trash Tours’ for a lively bus ride through Nashville with the Jugg sisters.  If you want a serious tour, this isn’t the option, but if you want a hilarious few hours of improv comedy while riding around Nashville in a pink bus, this popular tour is for you.  Reservations can book up  months in advance.  Check availability at www.nashtrash.com, and call 615-226-7300 to book or to request being on the wait list.  For small parties, it’s also worthwhile to show up at the south end of the Nashville  Farmer’s Market prior to a scheduled tour to see if any cancellations have created openings.   A New  Murder Mystery Tour is also now offered by the same company.  
 
A downtown hotel within easy walking distance of Broadway is recommended.  My personal favorites are the Hampton Inn & Suites Nashville Downtown and the Hilton Nashville Downtown.  Both are just a few blocks from Broadway.  The Hampton has exceptionally comfortable beds, parking under the hotel and a full complimentary breakfast including eggs, biscuits & gravy, yogurt, waffles, cereal & pastries.   Not gourmet and certainly not low cal, but a good base & significantly better than the typical hotel continental breakfast.  Parking is $17, which seems high but is actually lower than average parking fees in downtown Nashville.  The Hilton is a block closer to Broadway and is an all-suite hotel with recent renovations.    

If you fly in, a car is unnecessary.  There’s plenty to enjoy within walking distance of downtown, so a taxi to and from the airport is sufficient. 

My husband had dreamt of hiking to Phantom Ranch for some time.  When he recruited my sister, niece, college friends and our son and daughter-in-law – in essence, many of my very favorite people, I found myself, at age 57, overweight and not in great shape, contemplating – could I survive, and maybe even enjoy taking part in this adventure?  A year in advance, when it was necessary to book lodging at Phantom Ranch, it was easy to agree, thinking I’d have a year for training.
 
It was not to be. With a broken toe and various other mishaps, I found myself a month before the hike in anticipation, but also with significant fear, and contemplating cancelling.  In sticking with the plan, my goal became using any possible techniques and services to enhance my chances of success and maybe even fun.  
 
Here are my discoveries and tips for those who, like me, consider themselves borderline lightweights, yet would like to partake in this type of adventure.  I did do the trip.  Succeeding in this has given a surprising, newfound confidence in hiking, overall travel adventure, and in life in general.  I survived, enjoyed it, and am proud that I was brave enough to take on the challenge.  I’m also glad I did what I could to make it more easily achievable.  
 
Best Times to Go:

Spring and Fall are the preferred times for doing this hike.  March-May and September-October are the only months I, as a novice, would hike to Phantom Ranch.  Temperatures on the top of the south rim average 20 degrees F. cooler than temperatures at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon.  
 
Winter could be beautiful and would definitely be less crowded, but snow and ice on the trails can require cramp-ons on your boots.  That’s a deal-breaker for me. 
 
Summer can be excruciatingly hot, often exceeding 100 degrees F. at the bottom. The danger and discomfort of hiking in this heat rules out these months for me.  We hiked the 3rd week of May.  Our weather cooperated, staying between 65-75 at the top and 75-90 at the bottom.  A breeze and shade kept it comfortable even at the bottom of the canyon.
 
Making the trip during the optimum months requires planning 13 months in advance, so August 1st is a great day to try for September
reservations for the next year, with another opportunity on September 1st for October of next year reservations.  The reservation
process itself is an adventure.  (See ‘Making Reservations’later is this article.) 
 
Pre & Post Hike Lodging:
 
Bright Angel Lodge is a nice alternative for lodging the night before and the night after the Phantom Ranch hike.  Staying before and after makes it easy to store bags with the desk at Bright Angel, and upon arriving back on top, being able to pick up the key and
find your bags already in your room is a wonderful benefit.  There are several other lodges within the park, as well as many hotels in
the town of Tusayan, 2 miles south of the park boundary, but staying at Bright Angel puts you right at the top of the Bright Angel
Trail, right next to the bus stop to be taken to the beginning of the South Kaibab Trail, and right next door to several restaurants, an ice cream parlor, and a store.  Most importantly, when we reached the top, we were within steps of our room – a benefit that can’t be overestimated!   Reservations for Bright Angel can be made through www.grandcanyonlodges.com, a Xanterra website, which is the only company handling reservations within the park.   
  
Selecting Trails:

Overall, the main trails into the Grand Canyon are well maintained, plenty wide to avoid triggering a reasonable fear of
heights, and solid for walking.  There are rocks and steps where logs have been used to prevent erosion and improve footing on steep areas.  For a novice, hiking from the South Rim is typically recommended. North rim to Phantom Ranch requires a
descent of approximately 1200 feet greater than the south rim.  That difference is huge when you’re hiking it. 
  
We hiked down the South Kaibab Trail, and hiked up the Bright Angel Trail.  Hiking different trails gives variety, and the South Kaibab Trail is 6.9 miles, vs. the 9.5 mile Bright Angel Trail.  However, the South Kaibab trail is significantly steeper since it’s a faster descent, and begins at an elevation 400 feet higher than the Bright Angel Trailhead.  Additionally, the Bright Angel Trail offers water at three stops along the way.  (This can vary depending on time of year, so verify before hiking).   The South Kaibab trail has NO water along the way, so all water must be carried. Because of this and the steepness, hiking UP the South Kaibab Trail should be left to those buff
individuals who enjoy daily sweat and would look forward to carrying extra water  just to add a bit more challenge.  I don’t fit into that category.  
 
To hike the South Kaibab, we took the Express bus from the Bright Angel Lodge to the top of the trail.  Buses left at 5, 6, and 7 a.m. to give hikers plenty of time for a leisurely hike to Phantom Ranch.  We chose the 7 a.m. bus so we could have breakfast at the lodge
restaurant which began serving at 6 a.m., and to allow the upper canyon to warm up a bit.  We found it to be worthwhile to be a little chilly initially, to avoid carrying heavy clothing that was unnecessary shortly after descending into the canyon.  
  
I anticipated the hike down to be much easier than going up.  Prior to the hike, I discounted comments from others saying the descent is just as difficult, if not a greater challenge than the ascent. Lesson learned – don’t discount comments of others.  I faired well on the hike down the Kaibab, including an intimidating but really not-so-tough series of steep switchbacks mid-way, but about the time I could see the river and more switchbacks, my legs began to turn to jelly. Plenty of water and patient hiking partners allowed for frequent rests, and seeing the river and anticipating the end of the hike spurred me on to the finish.  
 
The Bright Angel Trail is longer, but there are several stretches where the grade is much more gradual than the South
Kaibab.   Being able to refill water lightens the load, and views are similarly spectacular on both trails.  The views vary depending
on the direction you’re facing, so hiking this trail both ways would be far from repetitive or boring.  Although both trails descend nearly a mile, the most dramatic descent on the Bright Angel is in the first three miles, an advantage to conquer while you’re fresh.  The South Kaibab’s continuous steep descent continues until near the end, with a steep set of switchbacks just before the bridge crossing the Colorado River, which can be tough at the end of the long hike.  Having said that, experiencing both trails was a nice option. Hiking down either the South Kaibab or Bright Angel trail is a good choice.  
  
Hiking up the Bright Angel Trail, for me, is the best and only option for a novice.  It’s the only trail with both water and toilet facilities, and the South Kaibab is simply too steep for ascent.  Meeting periodic mules was fun, and there’s plenty of room on the trail for hikers to move to the inside of the trail and let the mules pass. 
  
The variety of terrain and views were surprising, ranging from a tropical looking setting near Indian Gardens, to lush
spring desert flowers, and both narrow canyon and sweeping distance views.  
 
Lodging:

The facilities at Phantom Ranch are rustic, including toilets that require a 5 gallon bucket of water filled from outside taps to be dumped into the toilet to flush.  Having said that, it’s well worth staying at Phantom Ranch if you have the luxury of pre-planning and a little luck in getting reservations.  Four person cabins have two sets of bunk beds with bedding, a bathroom with a toilet, a cold water sink and a table in the bedroom area.  A communal shower in a separate building has three shower stalls, stocked with towels and liquid soap which also serves as shampoo.  10 person male and female dormitories are also available, which include a shower area and a bathroom in each dorm.  Groups of 10 can reserve a 10 person cabin for their group. 
  
There is a landline telephone at Phantom Ranch.  There’s no cell coverage here.  At the top of the canyon, cell coverage is good.  Historic communication works well here.  It’s fun to bring addresses of family and friends to address postcards from Phantom Ranch which will be stamped ‘Mailed by Mule’.  
  
If you choose not to stay at Phantom Ranch or are unable to get reservations, another option is the Bright Angel
Campground, but the campgrounds have no showers. Indian Gardens also has a campsite, but at that site, no options exist for food or alternatives to carrying all gear.  For either of the campgrounds, backcountry permits are required.  No other camping is permitted in the canyon.  
  
Meals:

Whether you stay at Phantom Ranch or at Bright Angel Campground, pre-purchasing meals provided by Phantom Ranch is
highly recommended.  Meals are available by reservation and are not restricted only to those staying in Phantom Ranch accommodations.  
  
Meals are good, hearty and basic, and taste wonderful when you’re in the middle of beauty, have hiked hard all day, and there are no other options.  Most importantly, eating at Phantom Ranch buys you a seat at a table, lemonade with ice, water, beer or wine, and it eliminates the need to carry food other than water, snacks, and lunch with you.  This is a huge benefit when every pound can feel like much more.  
 
Dinners are served at either 5 p.m. or 6:30 p.m.  Although most hikers from the south rim arrive at Phantom Ranch around 4 p.m. based on the highly recommended early start, to eliminate time pressure I’d recommend the 6:30 seating on the first night.  This seating serves an option of vegetarian chili or hikers’ (beef) stew, and lettuce salad, buns,vegetables, and chocolate cake.    
  
The 5:00 sitting serves steak, baked pototoes, lettuce salad, vegetables, buns, and chocolate cake. This is a good option if you stay two nights at Phantom Ranch.  A second night allows for a day of rest before making the hike back up.  Don’t be late for dinner, because all is timed closely to complete the 5:00 sitting, clean-up, and serve the 6:30 group. Don’t expect options on rare, medium or well done steak --- all is brought out and each person sitting at the table is handed a steak, but despite  the lack of options or fine dining, it’s easy to have more appreciation for this food than 5 star accommodations accessed by car.  
  
Breakfasts are served at 5 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., (5:30 and 7:00 in winter), and are always the same, but are very good.  Scrambled eggs, pancakes, peaches, bacon, coffee and a variety of juices provide a good base for the hike back up, or as fuel before day hikes if you choose to do those on your day of ‘rest’.  The 5 a.m. breakfast is the best option on the day you hike out, to provide an early start to allow plenty of time to reach the top, and most importantly, to hike out of the bottom of the canyon before the heat of the day descends on the bottom of the canyon.  The time of year dictates how imperative this is.  
  
Phantom Ranch has lunches available, which must also be pre-ordered.  The lunch each day is the same.  No other type of lunch is available at Phantom Ranch, so we utilized the same lunch on our day of rest, as well as the day we hiked out.  The lunch includes a bagel, cream cheese, summer sausage, raisons,  peanuts, pretzels, and Oreos. This lunch worked well since it was easy to eat a bit at a time as energy was needed, and there was nothing included that would spoil in the heat.  Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for pricing and and information on reserving meals and lodging.   

Water:

A Camelback™ pack to carry water is essential.  These packs evenly distribute the weight of carrying water, and provide an easy-to-suck tube that makes continuous hydration very easy.  I’m not used to carrying a pack, and I found the Camelback with water, along with some basic snacks and a lunch very easy to carry. Four liters (1 gallon) of water for each hiker is the daily minimum  recommended.  The most dangerous error in hiking the Grand Canyon is not having sufficient water.  It can cause great discomfort and can be life threatening.  Dyhydration can cause disorientation, cramping and dizziness, and in a setting where everyone is carrying their own water, it’s not realistic to expect to be baled out with someone else’s water due to lack of pre-planning.  
  
The South Kaibab Trail has two toilet stops, but no water available and much less shade than the Bright Angel Trail.  The Bright Angel trail has toilets and water year round at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, and Phantom Ranch, and also at the 1 ½ mile and 3 mile rest houses May through September.  
  
Stay an Extra Day/Day Hikes from Phantom Ranch

Had I not had a day to rest between the hike down and the hike back out, I could have been in trouble. Not only did this make the hike back out more enjoyable, but it gave our group time to relax together, and to enjoy the bottom of the Canyon.  Had someone told me I’d do a day hike on that day of relaxation, I wouldn’t have believed them, but I felt the need to stretch the muscles that day to keep from completely stiffening up.  Seeing more of the canyon bottom was an added benefit.  
 
There are three day hikes from Phantom Ranch.  The heartier hikers in our group took the Clear Creek/Phantom Overlook  trail.  This is a 19 mile round trip so doing the whole thing is not my definition of a day hike, but hiking part of it for great views is worthwhile for those up to it.  The first two miles climbs quickly with a few long switchbacks.  This hike includes nice views across to see the switchbacks on the South Kaibab trail where we hiked down, and has pretty views of the river and of Phantom Ranch.  The Phantom Overlook is one mile from Phantom Ranch (and 1000’ up).  (Insert photo.) This is a good goal destination for those wanting the views and some rigorous, but short, hiking for this day of ‘rest’.  If you decide to continue further on the Clear Creek trail, after the initial 2 miles, the next 6 miles of this trail are relatively flat. 
 
I was happy hiking the much flatter North Kaibab Trail toward Ribbon Falls.  The falls is a 5 ½ mile hike one way, but the hike is worthwhile regardless of whether you hike all the way to the falls.  This easy hike from Phantom Ranch, heading in the opposite direction of Bright Angel Campground was very pretty and quite different than the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trails because it followed some narrower areas of the canyon.  This trail comes into Phantom Ranch from the North Rim. 
 
The third day hike option from Phantom Ranch is the 1.5 mile River Loop, which encompasses the area between the bridges crossed on both the South Kaibab and the Bright Angel trails. This trail can offer gorgeous sunsets if done in early evening.  
  
When not hiking on our rest day, we napped, read, soaked our feet in the very cold water of the Colorado River, enjoyed time with our
group, and generally – rested.  Deer and huge ravens were plentiful around the cabins. We also saw a ring tailed cat.  Overall, because of the huge Cottonwood trees that were planted here in the 1920’s, Phantom Ranch has a nice oasis feel and is a great place to relax for a day.  
 
Pre-Trip prep essentials are:   
 
Good hiking boots that are well broken in (but not falling apart).  If you need new boots for this hike, ideally purchase them when
reservations are made months in advance of the hike, to give plenty of time to test the boots in various hiking conditions and with different sock configurations, and to break them in well.  I was very happy with my Keen™ boots, which provided nice support and plenty of room in the toe area without a lot of weight.  Many good brands are available, but hiking the Canyon is not the place to break in new boots.  Do NOT make this hike in tennis shoes, sandles or other shoes.  Good hiking boots will provide support and should prevent blisters.  
  
Hiking poles were essential for me, and I especially appreciated mine which have shock absortion on the bottom.  Using two poles was a great help in protecting my knees, and in maintaining my confidence and stability, especially as I got tired. Poles helped in making steps both up and down, which are plentiful on both the South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails where logs have been used to prevent erosion and to keep the trail from being too steep and slippery.  Ordinarily, poles should put your elbows at a 90 degree angle, but lengthening a bit for the trip down, and shortening for the trip up was helpful.  
 
Carrying wool foot fleece is a good idea.  If you feel a spot anywher  in your shoe that gets a bit sensitive, this is highly recommended to prevent blisters before they get started.  This is all we carried and all we needed.  I used only a small amount on the way up, when I realized one of my toes was a bit tender.  
 
Using a Camelback™  to carry water, snacks and lunch is wonderful.  This trip was the first time I’d used a Camelback™, and I won’t do a hike of any length without it after this.  
 
Either carry a separate bottle of Gatorade or something else with electrolytes, or add a packet of mix to your Camelback.  Otherwise, as you drink water, your body can run short on salt.  Electrolytes balance that.  If you do choose to add an electrolyte packet to your Camelback, use the kind that does not contain sugar to eliminate issues with bacteria growth when you store your Camelback at a later date.  It can be difficult to completely wash the sugar out of the Camelback liner, and if sugar remains, it will promote growth of bacteria.   The flavor of the electrolyte packet can remain in your Camelback as well, which may or may not be an issue depending on how you feel about that flavor.  Liner replacements are available.
 
Take plenty of snacks which could include trail mix, energy bars, nuts, or raisons and a lunch that won’t spoil if it gets warm in your pack.  The ________Lodge sells full box lunches, or separate sandwiches, fruit, etc.   We did take beef sandwiches, but ate them by mid-morning on our way down, before it was very hot.  You’ll burn somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 calories per hour of
hiking, so you will need the energy from snacks.  This is not the time to burn calories and not replace them.  
  
Cut your toenails short before the hike.  On the descent, if toenails are longer than the toes themselves, they’ll be continually bruised as the front of your foot touches the boot.  Regardless of how great your boots are, if the nails are long, it’s likely that you’ll end up with very sore toes and potentially lose toenails.  To test the length, push on the end of each toe to see if you feel the nail or the toe itself.  If you primarily feel the nail, clip it shorter.  
  
Condition as much as possible.  The average grade at the Grand Canyon is 14%.  Although most treadmills  only go to 10%, practicing at that grade is helpful.  Before our trip, I was able to go two miles at a 10% grade, going 3.5 miles per hour. I was tired while doing that and wondered how that would compare to the nearly 10 mile canyon trip at a higher grade, but training on the treadmill did give me some structured basis for training which was very helpful.  Time and other considerations limited my pre-conditioning, but doing some treadmill and some short hikes definitely helped.  

Grand Canyon Service & Facilities

The GREATEST Grand Canyon Service for the novice hiker is the mule duffel service that allows you to send up to 30 pounds up and/or back from Phantom Ranch.  The service costs $64.64 each way at the time of this writing. We found it to be money well spent. 30 pounds is a lot of weight. Four of us shared one duffel, and found plenty of room for what we needed.  Limiting the contents of the packs we carried on the hike to water, snacks, lunch and a light long sleeved hiking shirt was wonderful.  Having a change of clothes, toiletries and tennis shoes delivered made the stay at Phantom Ranch much more comfortable. Being able to trade in the hiking boots  for tennis shoes while we were at Phantom Ranch felt very good, but not good enough to have warranted carrying them in our packs.  I even packed my Kindle™ which I pre-loaded with books, so I felt like I had access to a full library while relaxing at Phantom Ranch. 
  
To use the duffel service, bags have to be dropped at the Livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before departure, so when packing from home,
 throwing in extra shoes, toothbrush, etc. to have one with you that night and one to send in the duffel works best. Maximum dimensions for the duffel are 36” X 20” X 13”, with all gear inside the duffel and no external frame packs.  Have mercy on the mules!  If it’s not possible to be at the livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before, if arranged prior to midnight the night before, late delivery is allowed for an additional $10 fee. Bags need to be at the pickup point at Phantom Ranch by 6:30 a.m. on the morning of departure at Phantom Ranch, and must be picked up at the Livery on top by 4 p.m. that afternoon.  Late pickup may be arranged to allow for pickup between 4 and 8 p.m.  Part of our group made it to the top in plenty of time to pick up the bags.  We were on top by about 3:30, but I was thankful that I wasn’t under time pressure, and didn’t have to hurry to pick the bags up by 4.  Upon arriving at the top, walking further - to the livery or to the car, was not my top priority. 

Don’t Panic:

I was incredibly stiff from the time I arrived at Phantom Ranch until the morning we departed.  I’m not talking muscles complaining a little kind of stiff, but stiff to the extent that I had trouble making the four steps in and out of the eating area.  I literally had to pull  myself up using the railings because the legs were so sore. Initially, it was the tops of the thighs, and then it moved to encompass the calves as well.  On the morning we were to hike out, when I was still having trouble making four steps I wondered how I would get out of the Canyon. Surprisingly, though, after beginning the hike back up, I loosened up and didn’t feel stiff again --- until after I’d reached the top.  
 
Celebrate the Achievement:  
 
Don’t let those who run from one rim to the other make you diminish your accomplishment.  Compare yourself to the rest of the population.  
 
Upon arrival at Phantom Ranch, I felt a huge surge of pride.  I’d made it!  I was tired and sore, but I’d made it, and the scenery and overall experience was worth it.  My initial pride waivered momentarily as I met people more than a decade older than me, as well as hikers who were hiking in and out in the same day, those hiking – and some running - from one rim to the other – through Phantom Ranch – all in one day.  None of these ventures are recommended, but people in the right condition can definitely achieve this.  My initial thought was, “How can I feel like this is so difficult, when to them, what I just did would be inconsequential?”  After a few moments’reflection, though, I decided that, for me, this was a huge accomplishment – one that I would give myself true congratulations for tackling and achieving. Discussions with ‘normal’ people after our trip made me realize that this was a major success, but while tired and in the canyon, it was easy to compare myself to people who are extreme hikers. While I respect them, I’m not one of them.  Compared to the average 57 year old, I can be proud of my accomplishment.  Of around five million Grand Canyon visitors each year, less than 1% complete the hike to the bottom, and I was one of them!  

So, should you do this hike?

This is a very individual decision.  The hike definitely pushed my envelope, and my only health issue is lack of discipline when it comes to chocolate and pasta.  I did snap some knee ligaments 25 years ago and this was the most stress I’d put on that knee since that time. 
Luckily, it didn’t create an issue for me.  It was a calculated risk I’m glad I took, but rescues in the Canyon are difficult, expensive, and can be dangerous, so do consider options carefully before deciding to do this.   It’s easy to think – it’s a U.S. National Park.   How tough or dangerous could it be?  This is definitely not Disneyland and people really do die – but with pre-planning and realistic assessment of your situation, it can be an experience of a lifetime.  Take it seriously and plan well.  
  
Making Reservations:
 
During optimum months to hike the Canyon, getting reservations at Phantom Ranch is challenging.  All reservations are handled by Xanterra.  For groups of nine or fewer, call 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757 at 8:00 a.m. Mountain Time (Xanterra is located in
Denver) on the FIRST of the month, 13 months from the month you want reservations.  So, for reservations for April, 2014, call on March 1st, 2013.  Ideally, have several people, all dialing in until someone gets through, and hopefully you’ll be lucky enough to get booked. Flexibility on dates is imperative. Cancellations for full refund are allowed up to 30 days in advance, so if you get through, book the reservation. If you don’t get through in March or April for spring reservations, September 1st offers another opportunity  to call for an October booking.  There are only eleven 4-person cabins, and two 10 person female dormatories and two 10  person male dormitories, so they fill quickly.  A reservation request form appears at the www.grandcanyonlodges.com site. These forms or emails aren’t  processed on the 1st of the month when staff handles phone calls.  During busy months, phone calls generally reserve all available accommodations so the forms or emails do little good for the busy months.  
 
For groups of 10 or more, a fax request can be sent to 928-638-0982 after 12:00:01 Arizona time on the first day of the month, 13
months from the month you want reservations. The fax must be received no earlier than 12:00:01 or your request will be handled after all requests arriving after the deadline opens.  Arizona does not observe daylight savings time, so check the time closely.  If space is available, you’ll be notified within 2-3 weeks by receipt of a contract.  50% deposit is due within 14 days of that receipt.  Cancellation for full refund is available within 30 days of your reservation date.  Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for a list of information that must be included in your FAX. 

Other Ways to See the Bottom of the Grand Canyon:

If you decide that the hike is not feasible or is just more than you want to take on, there are other ways to experience the bottom of
the canyon.  Mule rides include meals and an overnight stay at Phantom Ranch.  Rafting trips through the canyon are another option. Hiking, though, is the only way to stop at your leisure to gaze or photograph the unmatched scenery, and to know that you’ve made the journey all on your own.

“There are three stragglers in the valley to your left!” my husband yells from the top of the next ridge.  I can’t subdue my smile as I look at him, sitting on his horse in his half chaps, mustering 1500 sheep toward the next 500 acre paddock.  The backdrop for baaing sheep is a mountain range with deep hues of hunter and lime green, with yellow wheat-like grass swaying in the wind in the foreground.  A small stream meanders through the valley.   This is 18,000 acre Beaumont Station, located 105 miles southwest of Queenstown, New Zealand.  
 
If you’re looking for an authentic experience, this definitely qualifies.  There’s nothing polished about it.  The mustering experience begins in owner Lynn Minty’s pickup, a working farm vehicle with two dogs riding in the cage in the back.  The next stop is the pasture to catch the horses who are then tied to the back of the truck as Lynn slowly drives up the road, across a tenuous looking one lane bridge. Next stop is the tack shed where you saddle horses and begin your ride,  followed by Wag, the barking dog and Nan, the border collie who will act as our assistants today.   

Depending on riding experience, the option may be given to ride separately to cover a larger area, all heading in the same general direction to meet later.  We could see one another in the distance, and periodically crossed paths to compare notes.  Instructions were “ride in this direction, and if you see sheep, drive them toward the gate at the end”.  The beautiful meandering creek resulted in a few interesting creek crossings on horseback. Rescuing one blind sheep who couldn’t see the gate opening required a dismount to pick him up to set him on the other side of the gate.  All of these activities were optional, but it’s easy to quickly be transformed into the mindset of a true ranch hand. 

The $225 pp mustering fee ($330 for a solo) includes the all day horseback experience and a sack lunch.   Due to the remote location and to savor the full experience, the better option is the Sheep Station Exclusive Package at $695 pp which includes two nights
accommodation in the three bedroom cottage that used to be a farm hand’s quarters, a meal platter on the night of arrival, continental breakfast both days, the all-day muster, a Kiwi barbeque with the Minty family, plus your  choice of a half day horseback ride or a 4 wheel drive tour, also including lunch.  

Accommodations are not the Hilton, but staying in the former ranch hand’s quarters adds to the authentic experience. You won’t be faced with crowds here. Beaumont Station has accommodations for only one group at a time (sleeping a total of six maximum on any given night), with a limitation of five maximum on horse riding experiences.  Staying at Beaumont Station as part of the experience is highly  recommended, as other lodging is unavailable without a 25 mile drive, and Beaumont Station accommodations and hospitality are a large part of the experience.  The cottage includes a full kitchen reminiscent of small town America in the 1950’s.  If you plan to cook or want snacks, picking up groceries far before arriving is essential. The nearest grocery store is 8 miles away, and although the wine selection there is decent, the nearest fresh vegetables or fruit are in Winton, 25 miles away.  

Previous riding experience and a reasonable level of fitness is recommended for those taking part in the mustering experience.  If you don’t fit that description, several other excursions are available including 4 wheeling with Struan Minty, a 3rd generation New Zealand farmer, beginner horseback rides, and/or a high country champagne breakfast ride.  Multi-day horse riding experiences up to 7 days are also available.  Regardless of experience level, the personal attention and small group create a memorable, real experience
customized to you at an incredibly reasonable price.  The horses at Beaumont Station are well trained, and the Australian stock
saddles make riding comfortable even for those like my husband who believe riding is not a sport made for men.  

The Minty’s have operated Beaumont Station since 1982, and have offered tours since 2003.  The feel is much more of a working station than a tourist destination.  Lynn Minty, our hostess on horseback, shared her husband Struan’s disbelief when she suggested that tourists might enjoy helping with their mustering ‘chores’.  Lynn is the embodiment of a hard-working, independent, real rancher, a what-you-see-is-what-you-get, extremely gracious woman.  The entire Minty family opens their home and their hearts to visitors.  It’s obvious that they truly love sharing their way of life and learning about the lives of their guests.  
 
Contact: 
Beaumont High Country Experience (Lynn Minty), Beaumont Station, RD 1,
Otautau 9689, Southland, NZ; tel. 03-931-9858 or 027 292 8204; e-mail:
info@beaumontexperience.co.nz; website: www.beaumontexperience.co.nz. Open seasonally from November-April, and
off season by appointment.  

Come by foot or access by boat, helicopter or sea plane, but arrival at the No Road Inn on New Zealand’s Marlborough Sound won’t be by car.  Five star dining, great wine, huge rooms, and hammocks on the deck with sea views are especially satisfying far from civilization.  Bathrooms with one-way glass allowing magnificent lush forest views while in the tub or on the throne are icing on the cake.  
  
The No Road Inn can be a one night stop for those hiking New Zealand’s Queen Charlotte Track, or it can be a destination on it’s own.  Either way, allow time to relish the solitude and quality of this remote oasis. It’s easy to focus on hiking from lodge to lodge, but appreciating the lodge itself maximizes the entire experience. 
 
Coming off the trail with dusty (or sometimes muddy) hiking boots, guests are greeted by host Garry and invited to rest on the expansive deck with sweeping water views surrounded by intensely green mountains.  After settling into your large, bright, elegant suite, there’s time to enjoy the wine barrel hot tub set in the woods next to a stream prior to dinner on the deck. 
  
Dinner has the feel of visiting friends – as hosts Garry & Barbara somehow balance gourmet cooking with joining guests for dinner –but these friends can COOK.  The No Road Inn offers four suites and accepts only adult guests, adding to the intimate and personal atmosphere.   Dinner is an opportunity to relax and converse with other guests and your hosts over a four course dinner featuring New Zealand seafood and lamb, with wine and beer options as well.   
 
Breakfast is the best of B & B’s, without the structure.  Each suite is provided with free range eggs and an easy to use egg cooker, cereal, juices, yogurt, breads, tea & coffee for a full breakfast, on your terms when you want it, in the comfort of your room or on your deck overlooking Marlborough Sound.  
 
The Charlotte Track offers the beauty of New Zealand tracking with the benefit of luggage transfers by boat.  For me, a small pack with  water and lunch vs. a full backpack significantly enhanced the experience.  If you choose to balance relaxing at lodges with hiking those portions of the track you choose, you can take the ferry between lodges and hike between others to minimize total miles hiked.  The No Road Inn offers multi-day packages for those who opt for more relaxation time, or who would like to have a home base, with day hikes from there.

To access No Road Inn, take a 45 minute water taxi ride from Picton, or take a water taxi from Picton to Ship Cove and hike 5 hours to No Road Inn.  For a shorter hike, take a water taxi to Resolution Bay and hike 2.5 hours to the No Road Inn.  Three water taxi companies offer various options from Picton.  Some water taxis offer a stop at Motuara Island Bird Sanctuary, but skipping this allows more time at Ship Cove and on the hike from Ship Cove to No Road Inn where birds are also plentiful.   
 
Contact:  No Road Inn, No 1 Endeavour Inlet,
Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand, (03) 5798 300,
info@noroadinn.co.nz, website: http://noroadinn.com. 
Open seasonally from September –April. 

Water taxi options from Picton: 

Endeavour Express, http://www.boatrides.co.nz

Beachcomber Cruises, www.beachcombercruises.co.nz

Cougar Line, www.cougarline.co.nz

Departing from the ferry terminal gives us a nice look at the mountain backdrop framing Valdez.  

The ferry is comfortable, with a restaurant, comfortable booths and nicely padded chairs next to big windows, and plenty of deck space for watching the scenery.  There’s no comparison to our experience on various small ship cruises, but this is a practical and fun way to travel.   We see fishing boats, glaciers and mountains as we make our way toward Whittier. 

We arrive in Whittier just in time to drive through the tunnel and head toward Anchorage,
appreciating the familiar scenery, knowing that it’s our last day.  The motorhome return goes smoothly, and A & M Motorhome Rental goes the extra mile in delivering us directly to our hotel.   As we settle into the Holiday Inn Express room, I note that the bathroom is bigger than the ‘bedroom’ area of the motorhome.  We’ve loved the motorhome travel, but will truly appreciate the king bed, TV with remote, and full shower in this room.  
 
As we relax tonight, we reflect on our time in Alaska.  It’s been a traveller's and photographer’s dream --  great weather, blue skies with fluffy and sometimes awesome clouds, mountains, rivers, meadows, majestic rock formations, waterfalls, ocean, wildlife, flowers, people with character, PLUS 20 hours of daylight, with 2-4 hours of ‘magic hour’ lighting because of the slow sunrises and sunsets.  
 
We review the route we’ve taken and already begin to fondly remember our time here.  This is not a place to be crossed off of our bucket list, but a place to be added for a return trip.  

A destination within the park itself is the town of Kennecott, a historic copper and silver mining town that became a tourist destination in the 1980’s.  Kennecott is about 90 miles from the turnoff from the Richardson Highway, first taking the Edgerton Highway to Chitina, and then McCarthy Road, a narrow, gravel 62 miles which ends at a foot bridge at the Kennicott River, near McCarthy where cars are parked.  A 4.5 mile hike takes you to Kennecott, or a private shuttle leaves from the footbridge, going to Kennecott every hour. Shuttles are also available from Chitina if you choose not to drive the road.  Air charters to McCarthy are also available.    
 
We need to make it to Valdez by tonight, and we’ve just cleaned the dust out of the motorhome, so visiting McCarthy/Kennicott goes onto the bucket list for next time.  This would be a great place to hike.  Exploring this area in more depth is compelling.  We’ve been in Alaska for nearly a month, and still wish we had a few additional days.  
 
As we continue down the Richardson Highway, we see the Trans-Alaska Pipeline which parallels the Highway, although it’s not obvious, is underground in most areas, and is well covered by foliage where it is above ground.  
 
A ceremonial glass of wine is consumed while sitting on the edge of the Tiekel River.  

The Worthington Glacier, 28 miles north of Valdez, is one of the prettiest we’ve seen and one of the few in Alaska that can be easily accessed by paved highway.  A short hike takes us right to the glacier.  

Worthington Glacier is located in Thompson Pass.  The scenery here is especially  breathtaking. 

Keystone Canyon, shortly before getting to Valdez, has rock going straight up with gushing waterfalls on both sides. 

Valdez is a unique place.  The town was moved 4 miles from it’s original location following the devastation of the 1964 earthquake and tsunami.  It has an ‘old’ personality with all new buildings.   Mileage signs have not been changed, so when driving into Valdez, 4 miles need to be added to the distance to Valdez.   

We were supposed to be on a bus in Denali National Park today, but after experiencing that yesterday, we decided to venture out on our own.  We rationalized that we’d had enough dust, but since we ended up on an even dustier one and are happy we did it, the reality is that we just aren’t cut out to travel in a large group on a bus where we can’t stop, get out, take photographs, and cavort with other travellers exploring on their own.  Additionally, we've left the bugs behind.  For whatever reason, the only place we've been plagued with the legendary huge Alaska mosquitos was within the borders of Denali National Park.
 
Gracious House, the first establishment we come to on the Denali Highway, is a bar in a trailer with a distinct personality.  The antique snowcat decorated with flowers catches our eye when we pull in.  We stop out of curiosity, and because we’re not sure how far we might travel before seeing another commercial operation of any type.  It’s early afternoon and we’re travelling, so it’s definitely not cocktail time.  Carol, the proprietor, suggests the Blueberry Pie.  It’s a good recommendation. 

The Gracious House also offers Air Taxi Services, as well as fishing and hunting tours.  Carol’s husband, Bruce, well into his 70’s, is the pilot.  It seems that nearly everyone is a pilot here, or lives with someone who is.  

Today, our favorite new people are Reese and Lyle, who we meet at Gracious House.  They’re riding BMW’s on this road, making any complaints I have about dust lame in comparison to their eating dust from those of us in motorhomes, trucks and other big vehicles. 

Just down the road, we see a bed and breakfast.  We make a quick stop for a Coke and to check out the Alpine Creek Lodge, the second establishment on this road.  

Three hours later, at Maclaren River Lodge, the third & final establishment, we run into Reese & Lyle again.  Lyle waves as we leave after spending an hour with them. 

We proceed to the intersection of the Denali Highway with the Richardson Highway, a paved road that will end when we get to Valdez.   When we pull into the campground, we realize that EVERYTHING is covered in a thick layer of dust, including items in the drawers.  Thankfully, we have plenty of water in our tank and napkins to use in wiping everything down while we laugh about the dust disaster we’ve created in the motorhome.  There’s enough water left for a quick shower for each of us.  

Although I understand the reasons for the buses and agree with the logic, I begin to  understand how animals in a zoo feel.  I’m looking out at animals roaming free, while I’m confined in a bus peering out of the windows with a lot of other people.   Depending on which side of the bus I’m on, I may or may not see what’s being viewed at the moment.   It’s an unusually hot day today, so wildlife isn’t moving as much as is typical.   As another bus passes us going the opposite direction, Jhan stands up and leans toward the window exclaiming, look – it’s PEOPLE!   He livened up our bus of hot, dust-covered people.  
 
We see Dahl Sheep on distant mountaintops, adorable picas, one Grizzly, and several caribou by the roadside and on snow patches trying to stay cool.   

An ongoing debate continues regarding terminology on the name of the mountain.   Denali National Park was at one time named Mt. McKinley National Park, but was renamed Denali in 1980.   Many would also like to see the name of the mountain officially changed back to Denali, it’s native Athabascan name.   
 
The name Mt. McKinley was given in honor of President McKinley in 1896 by a gold reporter – a political move based on promoting Alaskan gold with McKinley.  The name change was made official in 1901 after McKinley’s death.  President McKinley was from Ohio and never set foot in Alaska nor had any great interest or connection to Alaska.  The name change has been an ongoing debate for decades, and a bill is currently pending to rename the mountain.   
 
Signs in Denali National Park describe the reason for delay:  

When we return to the campground, any thoughts of taking a walk or sitting outside are thwarted by swarms of mosquitos.  They’re only slightly slowed down by the thick coat of bug spray we’re wearing.  We’re told we should appreciate the mosquitos since they’re food for the many species of birds we’re able to enjoy here.   We’ve tried.  We can’t do it.   When we see one of the bazzilion big, hungry, buzzing aerial torpedos with their little eyes staring at us and their stingers wiggling in anticipation of being stuck into some part of our bodies, our response is “You little bastard.  You have to die.”   The issue is, we NEVER see only one.  They cover the screens of our motorhome like a carpet, until we spray the screen and happily watch them fall off.  
 
We decide that perhaps camping here and riding buses for another two days is not the best plan.   Friends who were here two weeks ago thoroughly enjoyed the park, essentially bug free.  It’s a wonderful place, but next time we visit, we’ll make it early June or early September – pre or post the bug infusion.  We’ll venture out tomorrow and explore other parts of Alaska.