Day Six - ICEBERGS, GLACIERS & WILDLIFE - GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK
It’s a 6:30 a.m. departure to catch a shuttle to the Glacier Bay National Park Ferry, a comfortable, spacious catamaran. The initial part of the ride up the 60 mile long Glacier Bay is a relatively slow 10 knot jaunt until we pass areas frequented by humpback whales. It’s a precaution to prevent accidental collisions and damage to both boat and whales. Today there are no whales to be seen, but further up the bay, we see a wolf, mountain goats, sea otters and sea lions. We also see five brown bear including one lone male eating sedge grass high on a ridge and a sow with three cubs foraging among the rocks at low tide. The onboard park ranger explains that low tide means that the dinner table is set.
After we pass whale territory, the speed picks up to a brisk 30 knots. Today the water is calm and the ride jet smooth.
Getting to the head of the bay is a challenge for the boat driver due to the amount of ice in the water. Some of these little “bergs” are the size of small cars. Others are much smaller but very plentiful. There are bumps and thunks as the twin hulls of the catamaran push through.
Getting to the head of the bay is a challenge for the boat driver due to the amount of ice in the water. Some of these little “bergs” are the size of small cars. Others are much smaller but very plentiful. There are bumps and thunks as the twin hulls of the catamaran push through.
After a two hour boat ride past some of the most remote areas of the planet we began thinking that we must be the only people within many miles we get to the head of the bay. We then find ourselves sharing the view with two giant cruise ships. They look out of place in this remote setting, but are helpful in giving perspective to the size of the glaciers.
There are two separate glaciers here. The largest is the Grand Pacific Glacier. The end of this glacier was once half way down the bay near a native Tlinkit village when it started to advance. Legend says that at one point it was advancing as fast as a dog could run. The village was overrun and the people relocated to the present day village of Hoonah, 60 miles further south. The glacier continued to advance to the end of the bay at which point it just as abruptly (at least in geologic time) began to retreat until today it no longer reaches the ocean. An advance of 30 miles and a retreat of 60 miles all occurred in the span of the last 250 years. The park brochure shows lines where the terminus was by year during the retreat. This swift advance and retreat of such a massive amount of ice is truly amazing.
The highlight of the Glacier Bay trip is the “smaller” Margerie Glacier. This is a tidewater glacier because its terminus is in the ocean. It is currently in equilibrium, advancing about seven feet per day, balanced by about seven feet breaking off and falling into the ocean daily -- the source of all the ice in the water.
The highlight of the Glacier Bay trip is the “smaller” Margerie Glacier. This is a tidewater glacier because its terminus is in the ocean. It is currently in equilibrium, advancing about seven feet per day, balanced by about seven feet breaking off and falling into the ocean daily -- the source of all the ice in the water.
The glacier speaks. We hear rumbling and a few crashes as the glacier calves, with awesome booms when chunks crash down and splash into the bay. Watching the glacier in silence and listening to its’ sounds make a lasting impression. The dramatic power and grandeur of nature are inescapable.
This may be the last year of operation for the park service catamaran. This is a remote place, the trip is long and expenses to operate the boat are high. Rumor has it that the private service operating the boats will likely not renew after this year. If that’s the case, access will be limited to cruise ships or other private boats with authorization to enter.
After completing the cruise, some of us hike into the small town of Gustavus. An interesting au natural nine hole golf course is located between town and the ferry dock. At Mt. Fairweather Golf Course, dandelions dot the t-boxes, the fairways are a dwarf version of Kentucky Blue Grass, a spongy type of vegetation. The course is surrounded by majestic, gorgeous mountains. Club and cart rental is available at minimal cost and greens fees are $15 for nine holes. It’s all self service where the money jar is part of the honor system for payment. In addition to fantastic scenery, golfers may see moose, bear, fox, coyotes and assorted birds while teeing off. This would definitely be a memorable round of golf.
This may be the last year of operation for the park service catamaran. This is a remote place, the trip is long and expenses to operate the boat are high. Rumor has it that the private service operating the boats will likely not renew after this year. If that’s the case, access will be limited to cruise ships or other private boats with authorization to enter.
After completing the cruise, some of us hike into the small town of Gustavus. An interesting au natural nine hole golf course is located between town and the ferry dock. At Mt. Fairweather Golf Course, dandelions dot the t-boxes, the fairways are a dwarf version of Kentucky Blue Grass, a spongy type of vegetation. The course is surrounded by majestic, gorgeous mountains. Club and cart rental is available at minimal cost and greens fees are $15 for nine holes. It’s all self service where the money jar is part of the honor system for payment. In addition to fantastic scenery, golfers may see moose, bear, fox, coyotes and assorted birds while teeing off. This would definitely be a memorable round of golf.
