The Novice Hiker’s Guide to Grand Canyon’s Phantom Ranch
c. 2011 Colleen Cowles
My husband had dreamt of hiking to Phantom Ranch for some time. When he recruited my sister, niece, college friends and our son and daughter-in-law – in essence, many of my very favorite people, I found myself, at age 57, overweight and not in great shape, contemplating – could I survive, and maybe even enjoy taking part in this adventure? A year in advance, when it was necessary to book lodging at Phantom Ranch, it was easy to agree, thinking I’d have a year for training.
It was not to be. With a broken toe and various other mishaps, I found myself a month before the hike in anticipation, but also with significant fear, and contemplating cancelling. In sticking with the plan, my goal became using any possible techniques and services to enhance my chances of success and maybe even fun.
Here are my discoveries and tips for those who, like me, consider themselves borderline lightweights, yet would like to partake in this type of adventure. I did do the trip. Succeeding in this has given a surprising, newfound confidence in hiking, overall travel adventure, and in life in general. I survived, enjoyed it, and am proud that I was brave enough to take on the challenge. I’m also glad I did what I could to make it more easily achievable.
Best Times to Go:
Spring and Fall are the preferred times for doing this hike. March-May and September-October are the only months I, as a novice, would hike to Phantom Ranch. Temperatures on the top of the south rim average 20 degrees F. cooler than temperatures at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon.
Winter could be beautiful and would definitely be less crowded, but snow and ice on the trails can require cramp-ons on your boots. That’s a deal-breaker for me.
Summer can be excruciatingly hot, often exceeding 100 degrees F. at the bottom. The danger and discomfort of hiking in this heat rules out these months for me. We hiked the 3rd week of May. Our weather cooperated, staying between 65-75 at the top and 75-90 at the bottom. A breeze and shade kept it comfortable even at the bottom of the canyon.
Making the trip during the optimum months requires planning 13 months in advance, so August 1st is a great day to try for September
reservations for the next year, with another opportunity on September 1st for October of next year reservations. The reservation
process itself is an adventure. (See ‘Making Reservations’later is this article.)
Pre & Post Hike Lodging:
Bright Angel Lodge is a nice alternative for lodging the night before and the night after the Phantom Ranch hike. Staying before and after makes it easy to store bags with the desk at Bright Angel, and upon arriving back on top, being able to pick up the key and
find your bags already in your room is a wonderful benefit. There are several other lodges within the park, as well as many hotels in
the town of Tusayan, 2 miles south of the park boundary, but staying at Bright Angel puts you right at the top of the Bright Angel
Trail, right next to the bus stop to be taken to the beginning of the South Kaibab Trail, and right next door to several restaurants, an ice cream parlor, and a store. Most importantly, when we reached the top, we were within steps of our room – a benefit that can’t be overestimated! Reservations for Bright Angel can be made through www.grandcanyonlodges.com, a Xanterra website, which is the only company handling reservations within the park.
Selecting Trails:
Overall, the main trails into the Grand Canyon are well maintained, plenty wide to avoid triggering a reasonable fear of
heights, and solid for walking. There are rocks and steps where logs have been used to prevent erosion and improve footing on steep areas. For a novice, hiking from the South Rim is typically recommended. North rim to Phantom Ranch requires a
descent of approximately 1200 feet greater than the south rim. That difference is huge when you’re hiking it.
We hiked down the South Kaibab Trail, and hiked up the Bright Angel Trail. Hiking different trails gives variety, and the South Kaibab Trail is 6.9 miles, vs. the 9.5 mile Bright Angel Trail. However, the South Kaibab trail is significantly steeper since it’s a faster descent, and begins at an elevation 400 feet higher than the Bright Angel Trailhead. Additionally, the Bright Angel Trail offers water at three stops along the way. (This can vary depending on time of year, so verify before hiking). The South Kaibab trail has NO water along the way, so all water must be carried. Because of this and the steepness, hiking UP the South Kaibab Trail should be left to those buff
individuals who enjoy daily sweat and would look forward to carrying extra water just to add a bit more challenge. I don’t fit into that category.
To hike the South Kaibab, we took the Express bus from the Bright Angel Lodge to the top of the trail. Buses left at 5, 6, and 7 a.m. to give hikers plenty of time for a leisurely hike to Phantom Ranch. We chose the 7 a.m. bus so we could have breakfast at the lodge
restaurant which began serving at 6 a.m., and to allow the upper canyon to warm up a bit. We found it to be worthwhile to be a little chilly initially, to avoid carrying heavy clothing that was unnecessary shortly after descending into the canyon.
I anticipated the hike down to be much easier than going up. Prior to the hike, I discounted comments from others saying the descent is just as difficult, if not a greater challenge than the ascent. Lesson learned – don’t discount comments of others. I faired well on the hike down the Kaibab, including an intimidating but really not-so-tough series of steep switchbacks mid-way, but about the time I could see the river and more switchbacks, my legs began to turn to jelly. Plenty of water and patient hiking partners allowed for frequent rests, and seeing the river and anticipating the end of the hike spurred me on to the finish.
The Bright Angel Trail is longer, but there are several stretches where the grade is much more gradual than the South
Kaibab. Being able to refill water lightens the load, and views are similarly spectacular on both trails. The views vary depending
on the direction you’re facing, so hiking this trail both ways would be far from repetitive or boring. Although both trails descend nearly a mile, the most dramatic descent on the Bright Angel is in the first three miles, an advantage to conquer while you’re fresh. The South Kaibab’s continuous steep descent continues until near the end, with a steep set of switchbacks just before the bridge crossing the Colorado River, which can be tough at the end of the long hike. Having said that, experiencing both trails was a nice option. Hiking down either the South Kaibab or Bright Angel trail is a good choice.
Hiking up the Bright Angel Trail, for me, is the best and only option for a novice. It’s the only trail with both water and toilet facilities, and the South Kaibab is simply too steep for ascent. Meeting periodic mules was fun, and there’s plenty of room on the trail for hikers to move to the inside of the trail and let the mules pass.
The variety of terrain and views were surprising, ranging from a tropical looking setting near Indian Gardens, to lush
spring desert flowers, and both narrow canyon and sweeping distance views.
Lodging:
The facilities at Phantom Ranch are rustic, including toilets that require a 5 gallon bucket of water filled from outside taps to be dumped into the toilet to flush. Having said that, it’s well worth staying at Phantom Ranch if you have the luxury of pre-planning and a little luck in getting reservations. Four person cabins have two sets of bunk beds with bedding, a bathroom with a toilet, a cold water sink and a table in the bedroom area. A communal shower in a separate building has three shower stalls, stocked with towels and liquid soap which also serves as shampoo. 10 person male and female dormitories are also available, which include a shower area and a bathroom in each dorm. Groups of 10 can reserve a 10 person cabin for their group.
There is a landline telephone at Phantom Ranch. There’s no cell coverage here. At the top of the canyon, cell coverage is good. Historic communication works well here. It’s fun to bring addresses of family and friends to address postcards from Phantom Ranch which will be stamped ‘Mailed by Mule’.
If you choose not to stay at Phantom Ranch or are unable to get reservations, another option is the Bright Angel
Campground, but the campgrounds have no showers. Indian Gardens also has a campsite, but at that site, no options exist for food or alternatives to carrying all gear. For either of the campgrounds, backcountry permits are required. No other camping is permitted in the canyon.
Meals:
Whether you stay at Phantom Ranch or at Bright Angel Campground, pre-purchasing meals provided by Phantom Ranch is
highly recommended. Meals are available by reservation and are not restricted only to those staying in Phantom Ranch accommodations.
Meals are good, hearty and basic, and taste wonderful when you’re in the middle of beauty, have hiked hard all day, and there are no other options. Most importantly, eating at Phantom Ranch buys you a seat at a table, lemonade with ice, water, beer or wine, and it eliminates the need to carry food other than water, snacks, and lunch with you. This is a huge benefit when every pound can feel like much more.
Dinners are served at either 5 p.m. or 6:30 p.m. Although most hikers from the south rim arrive at Phantom Ranch around 4 p.m. based on the highly recommended early start, to eliminate time pressure I’d recommend the 6:30 seating on the first night. This seating serves an option of vegetarian chili or hikers’ (beef) stew, and lettuce salad, buns,vegetables, and chocolate cake.
The 5:00 sitting serves steak, baked pototoes, lettuce salad, vegetables, buns, and chocolate cake. This is a good option if you stay two nights at Phantom Ranch. A second night allows for a day of rest before making the hike back up. Don’t be late for dinner, because all is timed closely to complete the 5:00 sitting, clean-up, and serve the 6:30 group. Don’t expect options on rare, medium or well done steak --- all is brought out and each person sitting at the table is handed a steak, but despite the lack of options or fine dining, it’s easy to have more appreciation for this food than 5 star accommodations accessed by car.
Breakfasts are served at 5 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., (5:30 and 7:00 in winter), and are always the same, but are very good. Scrambled eggs, pancakes, peaches, bacon, coffee and a variety of juices provide a good base for the hike back up, or as fuel before day hikes if you choose to do those on your day of ‘rest’. The 5 a.m. breakfast is the best option on the day you hike out, to provide an early start to allow plenty of time to reach the top, and most importantly, to hike out of the bottom of the canyon before the heat of the day descends on the bottom of the canyon. The time of year dictates how imperative this is.
Phantom Ranch has lunches available, which must also be pre-ordered. The lunch each day is the same. No other type of lunch is available at Phantom Ranch, so we utilized the same lunch on our day of rest, as well as the day we hiked out. The lunch includes a bagel, cream cheese, summer sausage, raisons, peanuts, pretzels, and Oreos. This lunch worked well since it was easy to eat a bit at a time as energy was needed, and there was nothing included that would spoil in the heat. Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for pricing and and information on reserving meals and lodging.
Water:
A Camelback™ pack to carry water is essential. These packs evenly distribute the weight of carrying water, and provide an easy-to-suck tube that makes continuous hydration very easy. I’m not used to carrying a pack, and I found the Camelback with water, along with some basic snacks and a lunch very easy to carry. Four liters (1 gallon) of water for each hiker is the daily minimum recommended. The most dangerous error in hiking the Grand Canyon is not having sufficient water. It can cause great discomfort and can be life threatening. Dyhydration can cause disorientation, cramping and dizziness, and in a setting where everyone is carrying their own water, it’s not realistic to expect to be baled out with someone else’s water due to lack of pre-planning.
The South Kaibab Trail has two toilet stops, but no water available and much less shade than the Bright Angel Trail. The Bright Angel trail has toilets and water year round at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, and Phantom Ranch, and also at the 1 ½ mile and 3 mile rest houses May through September.
Stay an Extra Day/Day Hikes from Phantom Ranch
Had I not had a day to rest between the hike down and the hike back out, I could have been in trouble. Not only did this make the hike back out more enjoyable, but it gave our group time to relax together, and to enjoy the bottom of the Canyon. Had someone told me I’d do a day hike on that day of relaxation, I wouldn’t have believed them, but I felt the need to stretch the muscles that day to keep from completely stiffening up. Seeing more of the canyon bottom was an added benefit.
There are three day hikes from Phantom Ranch. The heartier hikers in our group took the Clear Creek/Phantom Overlook trail. This is a 19 mile round trip so doing the whole thing is not my definition of a day hike, but hiking part of it for great views is worthwhile for those up to it. The first two miles climbs quickly with a few long switchbacks. This hike includes nice views across to see the switchbacks on the South Kaibab trail where we hiked down, and has pretty views of the river and of Phantom Ranch. The Phantom Overlook is one mile from Phantom Ranch (and 1000’ up). (Insert photo.) This is a good goal destination for those wanting the views and some rigorous, but short, hiking for this day of ‘rest’. If you decide to continue further on the Clear Creek trail, after the initial 2 miles, the next 6 miles of this trail are relatively flat.
I was happy hiking the much flatter North Kaibab Trail toward Ribbon Falls. The falls is a 5 ½ mile hike one way, but the hike is worthwhile regardless of whether you hike all the way to the falls. This easy hike from Phantom Ranch, heading in the opposite direction of Bright Angel Campground was very pretty and quite different than the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trails because it followed some narrower areas of the canyon. This trail comes into Phantom Ranch from the North Rim.
The third day hike option from Phantom Ranch is the 1.5 mile River Loop, which encompasses the area between the bridges crossed on both the South Kaibab and the Bright Angel trails. This trail can offer gorgeous sunsets if done in early evening.
When not hiking on our rest day, we napped, read, soaked our feet in the very cold water of the Colorado River, enjoyed time with our
group, and generally – rested. Deer and huge ravens were plentiful around the cabins. We also saw a ring tailed cat. Overall, because of the huge Cottonwood trees that were planted here in the 1920’s, Phantom Ranch has a nice oasis feel and is a great place to relax for a day.
Pre-Trip prep essentials are:
Good hiking boots that are well broken in (but not falling apart). If you need new boots for this hike, ideally purchase them when
reservations are made months in advance of the hike, to give plenty of time to test the boots in various hiking conditions and with different sock configurations, and to break them in well. I was very happy with my Keen™ boots, which provided nice support and plenty of room in the toe area without a lot of weight. Many good brands are available, but hiking the Canyon is not the place to break in new boots. Do NOT make this hike in tennis shoes, sandles or other shoes. Good hiking boots will provide support and should prevent blisters.
Hiking poles were essential for me, and I especially appreciated mine which have shock absortion on the bottom. Using two poles was a great help in protecting my knees, and in maintaining my confidence and stability, especially as I got tired. Poles helped in making steps both up and down, which are plentiful on both the South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails where logs have been used to prevent erosion and to keep the trail from being too steep and slippery. Ordinarily, poles should put your elbows at a 90 degree angle, but lengthening a bit for the trip down, and shortening for the trip up was helpful.
Carrying wool foot fleece is a good idea. If you feel a spot anywher in your shoe that gets a bit sensitive, this is highly recommended to prevent blisters before they get started. This is all we carried and all we needed. I used only a small amount on the way up, when I realized one of my toes was a bit tender.
Using a Camelback™ to carry water, snacks and lunch is wonderful. This trip was the first time I’d used a Camelback™, and I won’t do a hike of any length without it after this.
Either carry a separate bottle of Gatorade or something else with electrolytes, or add a packet of mix to your Camelback. Otherwise, as you drink water, your body can run short on salt. Electrolytes balance that. If you do choose to add an electrolyte packet to your Camelback, use the kind that does not contain sugar to eliminate issues with bacteria growth when you store your Camelback at a later date. It can be difficult to completely wash the sugar out of the Camelback liner, and if sugar remains, it will promote growth of bacteria. The flavor of the electrolyte packet can remain in your Camelback as well, which may or may not be an issue depending on how you feel about that flavor. Liner replacements are available.
Take plenty of snacks which could include trail mix, energy bars, nuts, or raisons and a lunch that won’t spoil if it gets warm in your pack. The ________Lodge sells full box lunches, or separate sandwiches, fruit, etc. We did take beef sandwiches, but ate them by mid-morning on our way down, before it was very hot. You’ll burn somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 calories per hour of
hiking, so you will need the energy from snacks. This is not the time to burn calories and not replace them.
Cut your toenails short before the hike. On the descent, if toenails are longer than the toes themselves, they’ll be continually bruised as the front of your foot touches the boot. Regardless of how great your boots are, if the nails are long, it’s likely that you’ll end up with very sore toes and potentially lose toenails. To test the length, push on the end of each toe to see if you feel the nail or the toe itself. If you primarily feel the nail, clip it shorter.
Condition as much as possible. The average grade at the Grand Canyon is 14%. Although most treadmills only go to 10%, practicing at that grade is helpful. Before our trip, I was able to go two miles at a 10% grade, going 3.5 miles per hour. I was tired while doing that and wondered how that would compare to the nearly 10 mile canyon trip at a higher grade, but training on the treadmill did give me some structured basis for training which was very helpful. Time and other considerations limited my pre-conditioning, but doing some treadmill and some short hikes definitely helped.
Grand Canyon Service & Facilities
The GREATEST Grand Canyon Service for the novice hiker is the mule duffel service that allows you to send up to 30 pounds up and/or back from Phantom Ranch. The service costs $64.64 each way at the time of this writing. We found it to be money well spent. 30 pounds is a lot of weight. Four of us shared one duffel, and found plenty of room for what we needed. Limiting the contents of the packs we carried on the hike to water, snacks, lunch and a light long sleeved hiking shirt was wonderful. Having a change of clothes, toiletries and tennis shoes delivered made the stay at Phantom Ranch much more comfortable. Being able to trade in the hiking boots for tennis shoes while we were at Phantom Ranch felt very good, but not good enough to have warranted carrying them in our packs. I even packed my Kindle™ which I pre-loaded with books, so I felt like I had access to a full library while relaxing at Phantom Ranch.
To use the duffel service, bags have to be dropped at the Livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before departure, so when packing from home,
throwing in extra shoes, toothbrush, etc. to have one with you that night and one to send in the duffel works best. Maximum dimensions for the duffel are 36” X 20” X 13”, with all gear inside the duffel and no external frame packs. Have mercy on the mules! If it’s not possible to be at the livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before, if arranged prior to midnight the night before, late delivery is allowed for an additional $10 fee. Bags need to be at the pickup point at Phantom Ranch by 6:30 a.m. on the morning of departure at Phantom Ranch, and must be picked up at the Livery on top by 4 p.m. that afternoon. Late pickup may be arranged to allow for pickup between 4 and 8 p.m. Part of our group made it to the top in plenty of time to pick up the bags. We were on top by about 3:30, but I was thankful that I wasn’t under time pressure, and didn’t have to hurry to pick the bags up by 4. Upon arriving at the top, walking further - to the livery or to the car, was not my top priority.
Don’t Panic:
I was incredibly stiff from the time I arrived at Phantom Ranch until the morning we departed. I’m not talking muscles complaining a little kind of stiff, but stiff to the extent that I had trouble making the four steps in and out of the eating area. I literally had to pull myself up using the railings because the legs were so sore. Initially, it was the tops of the thighs, and then it moved to encompass the calves as well. On the morning we were to hike out, when I was still having trouble making four steps I wondered how I would get out of the Canyon. Surprisingly, though, after beginning the hike back up, I loosened up and didn’t feel stiff again --- until after I’d reached the top.
Celebrate the Achievement:
Don’t let those who run from one rim to the other make you diminish your accomplishment. Compare yourself to the rest of the population.
Upon arrival at Phantom Ranch, I felt a huge surge of pride. I’d made it! I was tired and sore, but I’d made it, and the scenery and overall experience was worth it. My initial pride waivered momentarily as I met people more than a decade older than me, as well as hikers who were hiking in and out in the same day, those hiking – and some running - from one rim to the other – through Phantom Ranch – all in one day. None of these ventures are recommended, but people in the right condition can definitely achieve this. My initial thought was, “How can I feel like this is so difficult, when to them, what I just did would be inconsequential?” After a few moments’reflection, though, I decided that, for me, this was a huge accomplishment – one that I would give myself true congratulations for tackling and achieving. Discussions with ‘normal’ people after our trip made me realize that this was a major success, but while tired and in the canyon, it was easy to compare myself to people who are extreme hikers. While I respect them, I’m not one of them. Compared to the average 57 year old, I can be proud of my accomplishment. Of around five million Grand Canyon visitors each year, less than 1% complete the hike to the bottom, and I was one of them!
So, should you do this hike?
This is a very individual decision. The hike definitely pushed my envelope, and my only health issue is lack of discipline when it comes to chocolate and pasta. I did snap some knee ligaments 25 years ago and this was the most stress I’d put on that knee since that time.
Luckily, it didn’t create an issue for me. It was a calculated risk I’m glad I took, but rescues in the Canyon are difficult, expensive, and can be dangerous, so do consider options carefully before deciding to do this. It’s easy to think – it’s a U.S. National Park. How tough or dangerous could it be? This is definitely not Disneyland and people really do die – but with pre-planning and realistic assessment of your situation, it can be an experience of a lifetime. Take it seriously and plan well.
Making Reservations:
During optimum months to hike the Canyon, getting reservations at Phantom Ranch is challenging. All reservations are handled by Xanterra. For groups of nine or fewer, call 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757 at 8:00 a.m. Mountain Time (Xanterra is located in
Denver) on the FIRST of the month, 13 months from the month you want reservations. So, for reservations for April, 2014, call on March 1st, 2013. Ideally, have several people, all dialing in until someone gets through, and hopefully you’ll be lucky enough to get booked. Flexibility on dates is imperative. Cancellations for full refund are allowed up to 30 days in advance, so if you get through, book the reservation. If you don’t get through in March or April for spring reservations, September 1st offers another opportunity to call for an October booking. There are only eleven 4-person cabins, and two 10 person female dormatories and two 10 person male dormitories, so they fill quickly. A reservation request form appears at the www.grandcanyonlodges.com site. These forms or emails aren’t processed on the 1st of the month when staff handles phone calls. During busy months, phone calls generally reserve all available accommodations so the forms or emails do little good for the busy months.
For groups of 10 or more, a fax request can be sent to 928-638-0982 after 12:00:01 Arizona time on the first day of the month, 13
months from the month you want reservations. The fax must be received no earlier than 12:00:01 or your request will be handled after all requests arriving after the deadline opens. Arizona does not observe daylight savings time, so check the time closely. If space is available, you’ll be notified within 2-3 weeks by receipt of a contract. 50% deposit is due within 14 days of that receipt. Cancellation for full refund is available within 30 days of your reservation date. Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for a list of information that must be included in your FAX.
Other Ways to See the Bottom of the Grand Canyon:
If you decide that the hike is not feasible or is just more than you want to take on, there are other ways to experience the bottom of
the canyon. Mule rides include meals and an overnight stay at Phantom Ranch. Rafting trips through the canyon are another option. Hiking, though, is the only way to stop at your leisure to gaze or photograph the unmatched scenery, and to know that you’ve made the journey all on your own.
It was not to be. With a broken toe and various other mishaps, I found myself a month before the hike in anticipation, but also with significant fear, and contemplating cancelling. In sticking with the plan, my goal became using any possible techniques and services to enhance my chances of success and maybe even fun.
Here are my discoveries and tips for those who, like me, consider themselves borderline lightweights, yet would like to partake in this type of adventure. I did do the trip. Succeeding in this has given a surprising, newfound confidence in hiking, overall travel adventure, and in life in general. I survived, enjoyed it, and am proud that I was brave enough to take on the challenge. I’m also glad I did what I could to make it more easily achievable.
Best Times to Go:
Spring and Fall are the preferred times for doing this hike. March-May and September-October are the only months I, as a novice, would hike to Phantom Ranch. Temperatures on the top of the south rim average 20 degrees F. cooler than temperatures at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon.
Winter could be beautiful and would definitely be less crowded, but snow and ice on the trails can require cramp-ons on your boots. That’s a deal-breaker for me.
Summer can be excruciatingly hot, often exceeding 100 degrees F. at the bottom. The danger and discomfort of hiking in this heat rules out these months for me. We hiked the 3rd week of May. Our weather cooperated, staying between 65-75 at the top and 75-90 at the bottom. A breeze and shade kept it comfortable even at the bottom of the canyon.
Making the trip during the optimum months requires planning 13 months in advance, so August 1st is a great day to try for September
reservations for the next year, with another opportunity on September 1st for October of next year reservations. The reservation
process itself is an adventure. (See ‘Making Reservations’later is this article.)
Pre & Post Hike Lodging:
Bright Angel Lodge is a nice alternative for lodging the night before and the night after the Phantom Ranch hike. Staying before and after makes it easy to store bags with the desk at Bright Angel, and upon arriving back on top, being able to pick up the key and
find your bags already in your room is a wonderful benefit. There are several other lodges within the park, as well as many hotels in
the town of Tusayan, 2 miles south of the park boundary, but staying at Bright Angel puts you right at the top of the Bright Angel
Trail, right next to the bus stop to be taken to the beginning of the South Kaibab Trail, and right next door to several restaurants, an ice cream parlor, and a store. Most importantly, when we reached the top, we were within steps of our room – a benefit that can’t be overestimated! Reservations for Bright Angel can be made through www.grandcanyonlodges.com, a Xanterra website, which is the only company handling reservations within the park.
Selecting Trails:
Overall, the main trails into the Grand Canyon are well maintained, plenty wide to avoid triggering a reasonable fear of
heights, and solid for walking. There are rocks and steps where logs have been used to prevent erosion and improve footing on steep areas. For a novice, hiking from the South Rim is typically recommended. North rim to Phantom Ranch requires a
descent of approximately 1200 feet greater than the south rim. That difference is huge when you’re hiking it.
We hiked down the South Kaibab Trail, and hiked up the Bright Angel Trail. Hiking different trails gives variety, and the South Kaibab Trail is 6.9 miles, vs. the 9.5 mile Bright Angel Trail. However, the South Kaibab trail is significantly steeper since it’s a faster descent, and begins at an elevation 400 feet higher than the Bright Angel Trailhead. Additionally, the Bright Angel Trail offers water at three stops along the way. (This can vary depending on time of year, so verify before hiking). The South Kaibab trail has NO water along the way, so all water must be carried. Because of this and the steepness, hiking UP the South Kaibab Trail should be left to those buff
individuals who enjoy daily sweat and would look forward to carrying extra water just to add a bit more challenge. I don’t fit into that category.
To hike the South Kaibab, we took the Express bus from the Bright Angel Lodge to the top of the trail. Buses left at 5, 6, and 7 a.m. to give hikers plenty of time for a leisurely hike to Phantom Ranch. We chose the 7 a.m. bus so we could have breakfast at the lodge
restaurant which began serving at 6 a.m., and to allow the upper canyon to warm up a bit. We found it to be worthwhile to be a little chilly initially, to avoid carrying heavy clothing that was unnecessary shortly after descending into the canyon.
I anticipated the hike down to be much easier than going up. Prior to the hike, I discounted comments from others saying the descent is just as difficult, if not a greater challenge than the ascent. Lesson learned – don’t discount comments of others. I faired well on the hike down the Kaibab, including an intimidating but really not-so-tough series of steep switchbacks mid-way, but about the time I could see the river and more switchbacks, my legs began to turn to jelly. Plenty of water and patient hiking partners allowed for frequent rests, and seeing the river and anticipating the end of the hike spurred me on to the finish.
The Bright Angel Trail is longer, but there are several stretches where the grade is much more gradual than the South
Kaibab. Being able to refill water lightens the load, and views are similarly spectacular on both trails. The views vary depending
on the direction you’re facing, so hiking this trail both ways would be far from repetitive or boring. Although both trails descend nearly a mile, the most dramatic descent on the Bright Angel is in the first three miles, an advantage to conquer while you’re fresh. The South Kaibab’s continuous steep descent continues until near the end, with a steep set of switchbacks just before the bridge crossing the Colorado River, which can be tough at the end of the long hike. Having said that, experiencing both trails was a nice option. Hiking down either the South Kaibab or Bright Angel trail is a good choice.
Hiking up the Bright Angel Trail, for me, is the best and only option for a novice. It’s the only trail with both water and toilet facilities, and the South Kaibab is simply too steep for ascent. Meeting periodic mules was fun, and there’s plenty of room on the trail for hikers to move to the inside of the trail and let the mules pass.
The variety of terrain and views were surprising, ranging from a tropical looking setting near Indian Gardens, to lush
spring desert flowers, and both narrow canyon and sweeping distance views.
Lodging:
The facilities at Phantom Ranch are rustic, including toilets that require a 5 gallon bucket of water filled from outside taps to be dumped into the toilet to flush. Having said that, it’s well worth staying at Phantom Ranch if you have the luxury of pre-planning and a little luck in getting reservations. Four person cabins have two sets of bunk beds with bedding, a bathroom with a toilet, a cold water sink and a table in the bedroom area. A communal shower in a separate building has three shower stalls, stocked with towels and liquid soap which also serves as shampoo. 10 person male and female dormitories are also available, which include a shower area and a bathroom in each dorm. Groups of 10 can reserve a 10 person cabin for their group.
There is a landline telephone at Phantom Ranch. There’s no cell coverage here. At the top of the canyon, cell coverage is good. Historic communication works well here. It’s fun to bring addresses of family and friends to address postcards from Phantom Ranch which will be stamped ‘Mailed by Mule’.
If you choose not to stay at Phantom Ranch or are unable to get reservations, another option is the Bright Angel
Campground, but the campgrounds have no showers. Indian Gardens also has a campsite, but at that site, no options exist for food or alternatives to carrying all gear. For either of the campgrounds, backcountry permits are required. No other camping is permitted in the canyon.
Meals:
Whether you stay at Phantom Ranch or at Bright Angel Campground, pre-purchasing meals provided by Phantom Ranch is
highly recommended. Meals are available by reservation and are not restricted only to those staying in Phantom Ranch accommodations.
Meals are good, hearty and basic, and taste wonderful when you’re in the middle of beauty, have hiked hard all day, and there are no other options. Most importantly, eating at Phantom Ranch buys you a seat at a table, lemonade with ice, water, beer or wine, and it eliminates the need to carry food other than water, snacks, and lunch with you. This is a huge benefit when every pound can feel like much more.
Dinners are served at either 5 p.m. or 6:30 p.m. Although most hikers from the south rim arrive at Phantom Ranch around 4 p.m. based on the highly recommended early start, to eliminate time pressure I’d recommend the 6:30 seating on the first night. This seating serves an option of vegetarian chili or hikers’ (beef) stew, and lettuce salad, buns,vegetables, and chocolate cake.
The 5:00 sitting serves steak, baked pototoes, lettuce salad, vegetables, buns, and chocolate cake. This is a good option if you stay two nights at Phantom Ranch. A second night allows for a day of rest before making the hike back up. Don’t be late for dinner, because all is timed closely to complete the 5:00 sitting, clean-up, and serve the 6:30 group. Don’t expect options on rare, medium or well done steak --- all is brought out and each person sitting at the table is handed a steak, but despite the lack of options or fine dining, it’s easy to have more appreciation for this food than 5 star accommodations accessed by car.
Breakfasts are served at 5 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., (5:30 and 7:00 in winter), and are always the same, but are very good. Scrambled eggs, pancakes, peaches, bacon, coffee and a variety of juices provide a good base for the hike back up, or as fuel before day hikes if you choose to do those on your day of ‘rest’. The 5 a.m. breakfast is the best option on the day you hike out, to provide an early start to allow plenty of time to reach the top, and most importantly, to hike out of the bottom of the canyon before the heat of the day descends on the bottom of the canyon. The time of year dictates how imperative this is.
Phantom Ranch has lunches available, which must also be pre-ordered. The lunch each day is the same. No other type of lunch is available at Phantom Ranch, so we utilized the same lunch on our day of rest, as well as the day we hiked out. The lunch includes a bagel, cream cheese, summer sausage, raisons, peanuts, pretzels, and Oreos. This lunch worked well since it was easy to eat a bit at a time as energy was needed, and there was nothing included that would spoil in the heat. Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for pricing and and information on reserving meals and lodging.
Water:
A Camelback™ pack to carry water is essential. These packs evenly distribute the weight of carrying water, and provide an easy-to-suck tube that makes continuous hydration very easy. I’m not used to carrying a pack, and I found the Camelback with water, along with some basic snacks and a lunch very easy to carry. Four liters (1 gallon) of water for each hiker is the daily minimum recommended. The most dangerous error in hiking the Grand Canyon is not having sufficient water. It can cause great discomfort and can be life threatening. Dyhydration can cause disorientation, cramping and dizziness, and in a setting where everyone is carrying their own water, it’s not realistic to expect to be baled out with someone else’s water due to lack of pre-planning.
The South Kaibab Trail has two toilet stops, but no water available and much less shade than the Bright Angel Trail. The Bright Angel trail has toilets and water year round at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, and Phantom Ranch, and also at the 1 ½ mile and 3 mile rest houses May through September.
Stay an Extra Day/Day Hikes from Phantom Ranch
Had I not had a day to rest between the hike down and the hike back out, I could have been in trouble. Not only did this make the hike back out more enjoyable, but it gave our group time to relax together, and to enjoy the bottom of the Canyon. Had someone told me I’d do a day hike on that day of relaxation, I wouldn’t have believed them, but I felt the need to stretch the muscles that day to keep from completely stiffening up. Seeing more of the canyon bottom was an added benefit.
There are three day hikes from Phantom Ranch. The heartier hikers in our group took the Clear Creek/Phantom Overlook trail. This is a 19 mile round trip so doing the whole thing is not my definition of a day hike, but hiking part of it for great views is worthwhile for those up to it. The first two miles climbs quickly with a few long switchbacks. This hike includes nice views across to see the switchbacks on the South Kaibab trail where we hiked down, and has pretty views of the river and of Phantom Ranch. The Phantom Overlook is one mile from Phantom Ranch (and 1000’ up). (Insert photo.) This is a good goal destination for those wanting the views and some rigorous, but short, hiking for this day of ‘rest’. If you decide to continue further on the Clear Creek trail, after the initial 2 miles, the next 6 miles of this trail are relatively flat.
I was happy hiking the much flatter North Kaibab Trail toward Ribbon Falls. The falls is a 5 ½ mile hike one way, but the hike is worthwhile regardless of whether you hike all the way to the falls. This easy hike from Phantom Ranch, heading in the opposite direction of Bright Angel Campground was very pretty and quite different than the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trails because it followed some narrower areas of the canyon. This trail comes into Phantom Ranch from the North Rim.
The third day hike option from Phantom Ranch is the 1.5 mile River Loop, which encompasses the area between the bridges crossed on both the South Kaibab and the Bright Angel trails. This trail can offer gorgeous sunsets if done in early evening.
When not hiking on our rest day, we napped, read, soaked our feet in the very cold water of the Colorado River, enjoyed time with our
group, and generally – rested. Deer and huge ravens were plentiful around the cabins. We also saw a ring tailed cat. Overall, because of the huge Cottonwood trees that were planted here in the 1920’s, Phantom Ranch has a nice oasis feel and is a great place to relax for a day.
Pre-Trip prep essentials are:
Good hiking boots that are well broken in (but not falling apart). If you need new boots for this hike, ideally purchase them when
reservations are made months in advance of the hike, to give plenty of time to test the boots in various hiking conditions and with different sock configurations, and to break them in well. I was very happy with my Keen™ boots, which provided nice support and plenty of room in the toe area without a lot of weight. Many good brands are available, but hiking the Canyon is not the place to break in new boots. Do NOT make this hike in tennis shoes, sandles or other shoes. Good hiking boots will provide support and should prevent blisters.
Hiking poles were essential for me, and I especially appreciated mine which have shock absortion on the bottom. Using two poles was a great help in protecting my knees, and in maintaining my confidence and stability, especially as I got tired. Poles helped in making steps both up and down, which are plentiful on both the South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails where logs have been used to prevent erosion and to keep the trail from being too steep and slippery. Ordinarily, poles should put your elbows at a 90 degree angle, but lengthening a bit for the trip down, and shortening for the trip up was helpful.
Carrying wool foot fleece is a good idea. If you feel a spot anywher in your shoe that gets a bit sensitive, this is highly recommended to prevent blisters before they get started. This is all we carried and all we needed. I used only a small amount on the way up, when I realized one of my toes was a bit tender.
Using a Camelback™ to carry water, snacks and lunch is wonderful. This trip was the first time I’d used a Camelback™, and I won’t do a hike of any length without it after this.
Either carry a separate bottle of Gatorade or something else with electrolytes, or add a packet of mix to your Camelback. Otherwise, as you drink water, your body can run short on salt. Electrolytes balance that. If you do choose to add an electrolyte packet to your Camelback, use the kind that does not contain sugar to eliminate issues with bacteria growth when you store your Camelback at a later date. It can be difficult to completely wash the sugar out of the Camelback liner, and if sugar remains, it will promote growth of bacteria. The flavor of the electrolyte packet can remain in your Camelback as well, which may or may not be an issue depending on how you feel about that flavor. Liner replacements are available.
Take plenty of snacks which could include trail mix, energy bars, nuts, or raisons and a lunch that won’t spoil if it gets warm in your pack. The ________Lodge sells full box lunches, or separate sandwiches, fruit, etc. We did take beef sandwiches, but ate them by mid-morning on our way down, before it was very hot. You’ll burn somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 calories per hour of
hiking, so you will need the energy from snacks. This is not the time to burn calories and not replace them.
Cut your toenails short before the hike. On the descent, if toenails are longer than the toes themselves, they’ll be continually bruised as the front of your foot touches the boot. Regardless of how great your boots are, if the nails are long, it’s likely that you’ll end up with very sore toes and potentially lose toenails. To test the length, push on the end of each toe to see if you feel the nail or the toe itself. If you primarily feel the nail, clip it shorter.
Condition as much as possible. The average grade at the Grand Canyon is 14%. Although most treadmills only go to 10%, practicing at that grade is helpful. Before our trip, I was able to go two miles at a 10% grade, going 3.5 miles per hour. I was tired while doing that and wondered how that would compare to the nearly 10 mile canyon trip at a higher grade, but training on the treadmill did give me some structured basis for training which was very helpful. Time and other considerations limited my pre-conditioning, but doing some treadmill and some short hikes definitely helped.
Grand Canyon Service & Facilities
The GREATEST Grand Canyon Service for the novice hiker is the mule duffel service that allows you to send up to 30 pounds up and/or back from Phantom Ranch. The service costs $64.64 each way at the time of this writing. We found it to be money well spent. 30 pounds is a lot of weight. Four of us shared one duffel, and found plenty of room for what we needed. Limiting the contents of the packs we carried on the hike to water, snacks, lunch and a light long sleeved hiking shirt was wonderful. Having a change of clothes, toiletries and tennis shoes delivered made the stay at Phantom Ranch much more comfortable. Being able to trade in the hiking boots for tennis shoes while we were at Phantom Ranch felt very good, but not good enough to have warranted carrying them in our packs. I even packed my Kindle™ which I pre-loaded with books, so I felt like I had access to a full library while relaxing at Phantom Ranch.
To use the duffel service, bags have to be dropped at the Livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before departure, so when packing from home,
throwing in extra shoes, toothbrush, etc. to have one with you that night and one to send in the duffel works best. Maximum dimensions for the duffel are 36” X 20” X 13”, with all gear inside the duffel and no external frame packs. Have mercy on the mules! If it’s not possible to be at the livery by 4:00 p.m. the day before, if arranged prior to midnight the night before, late delivery is allowed for an additional $10 fee. Bags need to be at the pickup point at Phantom Ranch by 6:30 a.m. on the morning of departure at Phantom Ranch, and must be picked up at the Livery on top by 4 p.m. that afternoon. Late pickup may be arranged to allow for pickup between 4 and 8 p.m. Part of our group made it to the top in plenty of time to pick up the bags. We were on top by about 3:30, but I was thankful that I wasn’t under time pressure, and didn’t have to hurry to pick the bags up by 4. Upon arriving at the top, walking further - to the livery or to the car, was not my top priority.
Don’t Panic:
I was incredibly stiff from the time I arrived at Phantom Ranch until the morning we departed. I’m not talking muscles complaining a little kind of stiff, but stiff to the extent that I had trouble making the four steps in and out of the eating area. I literally had to pull myself up using the railings because the legs were so sore. Initially, it was the tops of the thighs, and then it moved to encompass the calves as well. On the morning we were to hike out, when I was still having trouble making four steps I wondered how I would get out of the Canyon. Surprisingly, though, after beginning the hike back up, I loosened up and didn’t feel stiff again --- until after I’d reached the top.
Celebrate the Achievement:
Don’t let those who run from one rim to the other make you diminish your accomplishment. Compare yourself to the rest of the population.
Upon arrival at Phantom Ranch, I felt a huge surge of pride. I’d made it! I was tired and sore, but I’d made it, and the scenery and overall experience was worth it. My initial pride waivered momentarily as I met people more than a decade older than me, as well as hikers who were hiking in and out in the same day, those hiking – and some running - from one rim to the other – through Phantom Ranch – all in one day. None of these ventures are recommended, but people in the right condition can definitely achieve this. My initial thought was, “How can I feel like this is so difficult, when to them, what I just did would be inconsequential?” After a few moments’reflection, though, I decided that, for me, this was a huge accomplishment – one that I would give myself true congratulations for tackling and achieving. Discussions with ‘normal’ people after our trip made me realize that this was a major success, but while tired and in the canyon, it was easy to compare myself to people who are extreme hikers. While I respect them, I’m not one of them. Compared to the average 57 year old, I can be proud of my accomplishment. Of around five million Grand Canyon visitors each year, less than 1% complete the hike to the bottom, and I was one of them!
So, should you do this hike?
This is a very individual decision. The hike definitely pushed my envelope, and my only health issue is lack of discipline when it comes to chocolate and pasta. I did snap some knee ligaments 25 years ago and this was the most stress I’d put on that knee since that time.
Luckily, it didn’t create an issue for me. It was a calculated risk I’m glad I took, but rescues in the Canyon are difficult, expensive, and can be dangerous, so do consider options carefully before deciding to do this. It’s easy to think – it’s a U.S. National Park. How tough or dangerous could it be? This is definitely not Disneyland and people really do die – but with pre-planning and realistic assessment of your situation, it can be an experience of a lifetime. Take it seriously and plan well.
Making Reservations:
During optimum months to hike the Canyon, getting reservations at Phantom Ranch is challenging. All reservations are handled by Xanterra. For groups of nine or fewer, call 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757 at 8:00 a.m. Mountain Time (Xanterra is located in
Denver) on the FIRST of the month, 13 months from the month you want reservations. So, for reservations for April, 2014, call on March 1st, 2013. Ideally, have several people, all dialing in until someone gets through, and hopefully you’ll be lucky enough to get booked. Flexibility on dates is imperative. Cancellations for full refund are allowed up to 30 days in advance, so if you get through, book the reservation. If you don’t get through in March or April for spring reservations, September 1st offers another opportunity to call for an October booking. There are only eleven 4-person cabins, and two 10 person female dormatories and two 10 person male dormitories, so they fill quickly. A reservation request form appears at the www.grandcanyonlodges.com site. These forms or emails aren’t processed on the 1st of the month when staff handles phone calls. During busy months, phone calls generally reserve all available accommodations so the forms or emails do little good for the busy months.
For groups of 10 or more, a fax request can be sent to 928-638-0982 after 12:00:01 Arizona time on the first day of the month, 13
months from the month you want reservations. The fax must be received no earlier than 12:00:01 or your request will be handled after all requests arriving after the deadline opens. Arizona does not observe daylight savings time, so check the time closely. If space is available, you’ll be notified within 2-3 weeks by receipt of a contract. 50% deposit is due within 14 days of that receipt. Cancellation for full refund is available within 30 days of your reservation date. Go to www.grandcanyonlodges.com for a list of information that must be included in your FAX.
Other Ways to See the Bottom of the Grand Canyon:
If you decide that the hike is not feasible or is just more than you want to take on, there are other ways to experience the bottom of
the canyon. Mule rides include meals and an overnight stay at Phantom Ranch. Rafting trips through the canyon are another option. Hiking, though, is the only way to stop at your leisure to gaze or photograph the unmatched scenery, and to know that you’ve made the journey all on your own.
